local lyonnaise

Sometimes...

I don't want just the greatest hits or some best of playlist.

I want to listen to "Reckoner" as part of "In Rainbows"
                      or "No Surprises" as part of "O.K. Computer"

I want to savor Shostakovich's "String Quartet No. 8" in it's entirety,
                     not just the brilliant "Allegro Molto."

Sometimes...

I don't want just a country's most famous dishes.

I want to consume just the food and wine of a particular region.

I want dishes that aren't just executed well, but work well together.


And that's why I loved our Lyonnaise dinner at St. Jack's, why I chose it as my order-whatever-I-wanted birthday meal.



     Pommes Frites
       Rustic Pork Terrine with Pistachio
         Pork Rillette
           Saucisson Sec
             Cervelle De Canut
               Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk Cheese
                 Gratins d' Escargots
                   Fisherman's Stew
                    Special Pork Shank
                      Vacherin Aux Fraises
                         Mascapone Mousse
                            Madelines

The rusticness of it all. The beautiful Saucisson. The pickled fruit and veggies. The hints of mustard. The crusty baguette that you have to pull apart with your hands. The perfect scallop in the stew. The melty meat on the must order Pork Shank. The mind blowing Vacherin. The simply sublime Madelines. I loved it all.

I can't wait to return for Roasted Bone Marrow, Frog Legs, Fried Tripe, Whole Roasted Trout, Mushroom and Asparagus Tarte, Blood Sausage, Onglet Steak Frites, and Gratin de Macaroni. Few menus truly excite me, but "yes" I basically want to try St. Jack's in its entirety.

While not necessary, I found that reading up on Lyon and taking a cursory glance a few articles (see below) about St. Jacks definitely added to the experience, as did sipping a glass of Seven of Hearts Pinot Noir (Not a Lyonnaise wine, but I couldn't pass up a glass pour of one of my favorite French style NW wine producers).

So sure there's plenty of Best of Some Country type restaurants out there, but if you're the type that likes more than just what's popular, what's mainstream, that salivates at the mere mention of "Roasted Bone Marrow," and craves some regional specificity St. Jack is a food adventure well worth taking.


St. Jack 
restaurant and bar
2039 SE Clinton
Portland, OR 97202
http://www.stjackpdx.com/home/
503.360.1281


The Patisserie is open 7 days a week 9am-4pm
The Restaurant is open Monday - Saturday
Happy Hour, Monday - Saturday, 4pm - 5:30
Dinner, Sunday - Thursday, 5pm - 9:30pm
Dinner, Friday & Saturday, 5pm - 10:30pm
For parties larger than eight people please contact the restaurant directly at 503.360.1281.


More info:

The Oregonian's Rising Star

St Jack named 2011 Rising Star of the Year by the Oregonian.
Read the article.
Watch the video.

 

Alissa makes Madeleines

Pastry chef Alissa Rozos makes Madeleines for Portland Monthly: watch the video.